Becky Harris
ESVIE Contributor
“Pleats”- such a blunt and monosyllabic word, for such a timeless trend. The technique has been around for decades, having a particularly big moment in 1993, when Issey Mayake created “Pleats please”, a little garment revelation. It involved a new technology called “garment pleating”, in which the fabric was cut larger to begin with and then sandwiched together to create permanent pleats. This became his trademark, and is still prominent in the new collection, courtesy of Dai Fujiwara. Reviews have been slightly raving over his pleats- giving the garments “an undulating life of their own”, says style.com.
Miyake’s not the only one fighting the pleat front. Chloe’s ready-to-wear collection includes dresses and knee length skirts, in silk of peachy shades. Another more obvious brand for pleats is Halston Heritage. Famed for being a favourite on Sex and the City, Halston ties perfectly in with the current focus on the seventies decade. The pleated lamé dresses come in dazzling metallic colours.
But it’s not all just about the seventies. Pleat detailing was subtly everywhere on the catwalks for this season. At Alexander McQueen pleated organza was layered to add endless amounts of texture and volume to dresses, which look incredible with the dying of the material- dark blue fading out into a nude, reminiscent of sea creatures and skies. Alber Elbaz also pulled out all the stops in pleat world for Lanvin, to prove a point that wrinkles of the skin are to be embraced rather than hidden. Elbaz doesn’t appreciate plastic surgery, and to portray this, used clingy yet pleated materials in earthy tones. Even Lagerfeld threw some little pleat details into Chanel’s skirts, which peeked out from underneath the matching tweed jackets.
The pleat ties in perfectly with the overall feel to spring and summer. The way that a skirt sways so delicately when walking; not extravagantly, but elegantly. It’s not just skirts either; find simple pleat details on trousers, shorts, and blouses. The high street has caught on quickly, there’s an absolutely amazing metallic long skirt in River Island, one shimmery and glamorous enough to rival a Kate Moss get-up. ASOS has also gone a bit pleat-mad, in the form of dresses long and short, shirts and skirts. What’s particularly great about this trend is the room for personality. Pleats add texture and form to any outfit; they’re such an easy update for this season and can be given many individual twists by adding underskirts in lace or tulle. Do what you please, just get pleating!
