Becky Harris
Fashion Writer
Here we are, nearing the end of July, having not really seen anything more than a few consecutive days of proper, hot, sun, and I’ve basically given up. No longer am I excited about wearing those espadrille wedges to work. Not anymore do I dream for a beautiful breezy day where I can adorn my big floppy hat and white lace dress. And lost is the anticipation of whacking on my new one shoulder one piece and heading to the beach for an undisturbed, non-stop day of tanning and lying out in the sun. The sun, seemingly does not actually exist at the moment, and this non-existence has apparently perpetrated me into a frantic, fashion depression, unable to really break out of my maxi and chino choices that have so far been my survival.
Unsurprisingly, I am taking this hugely pessimistic outlook and turning it into optimism. Let’s look to the future, as that is what is getting me through these dull, dreary days. Forget the bright colour pops and espadrilles. Screw the stupid new bikini/tankini/onesini trends with their beautiful patterns and shapes. I want autumn. And I want it now.
What excites me most about the autumn trends? Well, for me, it has to be the gothic, fetish-wear which is making yet again another comeback. This time though, it’s all about overtly sexy outfits, complete seduction. On the catwalks, there were corsets, bondage bindings, stockings, leather, lace and my favourite feature, sheer panelling. Louis Vuitton went all out with “night porter” caps, knee-highs, sheer blouses and even hand-cuffed bags. Marc Jacobs commented on the inspiration, “We thought about fetishes and the way that people are crazy for Vuitton bags and shoes.”
My favourite designer embracing the darker trend this season however has to be Prabal Gurung, whose collection, inspired by the character of Miss Havisham, was pure romantic genius. Miss Havisham, one of Charles Dickens’ creations, was infamously jilted at the altar and goes insane following the event, and Prabal claimed he wanted to “explore the person she was before that happened.”
What resulted from this ambition was a wonderful, incredibly focused collection, perfectly expressing the vision of “controlled madness” with the excess of textures and materials, yet in defined cuts and shapes. Models wore awesome slashed tights under figure-flattering dresses with nipped-in waists and gorgeous necklines.
Materials ranged from perfectly PVC-shining leather, long, flowing chiffon in romantic maxi lengths, to stiff cotton, all cut with razor-sharp edges, completed with leather belts and gloves. It had a very ‘Nightmare before Christmas’ feel to it; think a sophisticated, sexy Sally. If I picked one designer to wear all season, it would be Prabal Gurung. He is just too cool.
Even the hair and make-up went with everything seamlessly: the hair thick and slightly dishevelled with random streaks of light pinks and blues, mixed with pure porcelain skin and innocent, natural looking lips, playing on a juxtaposition of seduction and festishism, with playful youth, an overall theme of this upcoming season.
As an old fan of all things gothic and dark, I fully support and encourage the wearing of this trend, to the fullest, and hereby swear to dress only in black for the res… wait a minute. It’s not all black. Of course, black was the main component, and you expect black from A/W. But there was a lot of red, too; dark and bold rubies, mahoganies, red wine purples and statement pinks. It is all about embracing the darkness this coming season, but make sure you do it whilst evoking opulent luxury, ultimate seduction, and a tad bit of innocence behind it all, got that? In my opinion, what better way is there to give a big “f*ck you” to this season?
